El Salvador I: Slowing Down, Pupusas & Beaches

An early morning for me since the Fire Brigade is up early washing their trucks and cars. But that’s absolutely no problem since a few minutes later I find out the most important football match in the Dutch League is about to start at 07:30. Starring my team Ajax and their biggest rival Feyenoord. I don’t know the tactics of my team yet, but in my dressing room the tactics are clear: find stable, good internet in an establishment that is open at this ungodly time. A western fastfood chain is always a good bet. Burger King it is. The Wifi is not good, but hey, at least they have coffee, breakfast and a clean toilet that flushes (!). The match ends in 1-1 and nobody is happy except for me for being able to have seen it.

Today I’ll cycle the Ruta de Flores, a stretch of 30km through the mountains with some picturesque villages here and there, and make my way down to the Salvadorian beaches at the end of the day. When I’m leaving the city I am messing around on my phone a bit and I’m not paying attention to the road. When I look up I see a parked car that I am nearing within a few meters. I try to steer around it but it’s too late and my right front bag touches the car slightly. The real shock however comes after that, because who is stepping out of the car to see which moron bumped their car? A female police officer. Luckily there is no damage and with a reprimand and a red head I am allowed to continue my way. For a good corrupt police officer this would have been an excellent opportunity to make some extra bucks. Thanks for being nice and not corrupt, El Salvador!

This country is starting to give me good vibes. People are extremely nice and everybody is all smiles and waves. I climb the next 19 kilometers with a smile and whoosh down dancing. It’s a beautiful day. An hour before sunset I make it to the beach, I take a turn into a small alleyway and drive my bike onto the loose sand. Kids are playing in the water, couples walking down the waterline hand in hand, families are making portrait pictures. I get a really good feeling off of this beach. I find a nice piece of grass but I think it is part of the beach house that it is in front of. I peak through the gates but it looks like nobody is at home. I take a chance. This is perfect: right at the beach but still with my tent on grass. Meaning that I won’t still find sand in every little crevice in two weeks from now. When enjoying the sunset a bit later in my camping chair I hear the gate behind me opening up. I immediately start apologizing for being on his property, but he is super relaxed and tells me right away that it is fine. No problemo, amigo. We talk a bit and for the first time I notice that with my Spanish I can have a conversation that is more than just Where are you from and where are you going. A sense of pride descends on me. Henry tells me that I might be able to see whales in the morning. What a day. I cook a pasta. Henry visits a few more times and also brings his wife down to the little piece of grass. They give me fresh coconuts and my first Salvadorian Pupusa (Pupusas here are like tacos in Mexico, fried corn-dough filled with red beans and cheese). Such nice people again. I sleep to the sounds of the waves.

Before I have stretched out and wiped the sleep out of my eyes the next neighbour already calls me in for coffee and breakfast. Wow! It feels like the people here are competing to be the most hospitable person. A nice Salvadorean that moved to Canada at a very young age is welcoming me. He worked in construction, made some good Canadian buck and is now back in his home country to build his dream house on the beach. And I have to give it to him, the place is turning out to be quite nice.

The complete morning I am hanging about in his hammock reading a book. The only problem is that he talks a bit too much, which wouldn’t be such big a problem if it wouldn’t be a monologue all the time. So I decide to pack up camp after one last dip in the ocean.

Different places I’ve slept this trip, ranked from most to least favorable:

1. In nature / wild camping. Preferably next to a lake or river for a shower and possible drinking water purposes. And preferably not visible from the road or a village.

2. On the beach. Preferably a quiet beach with not a lot of visitors. The sound of the waves are so loud that you barely hear any other sounds that might disturb you. Moreover waking up with a sunrise over the ocean is the best thing there is.
3. Inside a house. Warmshowers, Couchsurfing, a random invitation from the street. This sometimes means a bed, do I need to say more?! Also nice opportunities to learn more about local cultures.
4. In the front- or backyard or veranda of a house. Gives you the safety for a nice night of sleep and sometimes you even get a shower or coffee in the morning! This does  require some ‘asking around’ though.
5. Abandoned houses. On the one hand this means the safety of being inside a house or building and not being visible from the street. But on the other hand this means the risk of being on someone’s property, so permission from the neighbours is a pre.
6. At the Red Cross / Fire Department or Police Station. Safe, sometimes comes with a shower or use of the kitchen, but these people have to work so that means they won’t tiptoe around your tent to not wake you up.
7. Behind a gas station. No security and lots of noise and people. Pros are the toilets and sometimes the people from the station shop give you hot water for your morning coffee.

In swimming pants and sandals it’s only a short ride to La Perla. I’ve been in contact with another Warmshowers host and they’ve given me the green light. However I never received more than a “You’re welcome to stay over at Casa de Valeria!” This means I don’t have an address nor a phone number. No contact details whatsoever. I figure it’s a small village and that I will find the house but still I’m a bit unsure. In the village I ask around for Casa de Valeria and ultimately a friendly looking man with the whitest hair I’ve ever seen sticks his head out over a fence. Dennis, a super chill middle-aged guy that has a much more juvenile aura around him greets me. He just got back from a surfing session and shows me around the really, really nice house. Casa Valeria is right on the beach, has a pool, outdoor kitchen and lots of space.

I get my own room and bathroom and feel like having won the lottery once again. Dennis let’s me do my own thing for a bit and I happily take the opportunity to take consecutive dives in the sea, the pool and ultimately the shower. For dinner I get treated to papas fritas and chicken from the oven. On top of that we finish a bottle of red wine together. Man what a delight. We talk about adventures during our cycling trips. Dennis and his wife have done lots of cycling trips in Europe as well and are avid bike tourists as well. His wife is back home in Canada working at the moment, but Dennis found the time to travel to their vacation home in El Salvador. He promises me to take me surfing in the morning.

When I wake up and exit my room I see Dennis gazing concentrated into the ocean. I great him. He tells me that if I look closely there’s a family of whales that he spotted a few hundred meters into the ocean. I spot mama, papa and baby whale. They blow water into the air and I can see their heads dipping into the water. This day could not have started better! The surfing is cancelled for the day as Dennis has to help his niece out with some car trouble. He leaves early and he let’s me start of my day at my own pace. I make coffee, breakfast and prepare lunch. Today again is a short ride. I’ve heard pretty good stories about beach towns El Zonte en El Tunco. I arrive in El Zonte by lunch. I check out the surfers catching their waves. I don’t really like the atmosphere here. It’s way too Look at me, I’m a really cool surfing dude kinda vibe. Also I cannot find a good camping spot and the hostel is asking a ridiculous price for camping at their premises. I decide to pedal on to El Tunco, which I happen to like better. There is surfing here as well, but the people here seem less arrogant. I drive around town asking around for spots to camp. I ask way too fancy hotels if I can pitch my tent on their perfectly cut grass, but of course they politely tell me to take my dirty ass someplace else.

Then I see a “camping” sign and check it out. It’s basically a parking lot and the “tenting area” is in between the garbage bags. However, it’s also only 5 bucks and I see another tent, so this might be fun. The other tent belongs to an Aussie guy named Ethan and there’s also an Aussie girl sleeping in a hammock. I have a difficult time understanding the Aussie accent, but the vibes are good. We check out town, have food and go swim in the ocean. Then suddenly I see a big whale tail sticking out of the ocean 50 meters behind us. Way closer than this morning we again see three whales and this time they are jumping out of the water and smacking their tails onto the surface. What a majestic sight! After that I can lend a surfboard and find out that my surfing is still on point from back in my San Diego times.

I decide to stick around for an extra day in this lazy surf town. I walk, hang, read my book and go on a quest to find an internet café without result. In the evening I have pupusas and beers with the parking lot / camping squad and meet up with travellers Lauren and Ollie that I know from back in Guatemala and happen to be here as well.

I am restless once again. I find it difficult to stick around in one place. After one day my legs start itching and I’m always overwhelmed with feelings like Why would I stay here? The road is calling and cycling and being on the road is what I like most. I say goodbye to the Aussies. They don’t understand my urge, they don’t understand my itching legs. It’s okay.

I have to cross a real bitch of a mountain pass today. The steep gradients are turning up deep red in my navigating app. And deep red they are. The steepness of the road is forcing me to go into my anaerobic heart rate zone. My lungs burn, lactic acid fills up quickly in my leg muscles and I fall short of breath. I have to stop cycling a few times, which normally never happens to me. These grades are just not made for cyclists, or at least not for heavily loaded cyclists.

I make it to Santa Tecla, close to El Salvador’s capital. Once again I’ve seeked contact with a family on Warmshowers and once again I’m welcome. The address leads me to a gated community and when I tell the guard my purposes he lets me through.

When I press the doorbell and the door swings open two friendly faces great me: Rachel and Stephan. They show me around and I get to sleep in the bedroom of their daughter that is currently studying in Canada. Rachel and Stephan are super friendly and really make me at ease, I feel like they could’ve been my (younger) parents. They’re from France and teach languages (French, English or Spanish). Every four years they go to a new country to teach at an international school. On the one hand this allows them to see different parts of the world and really experience them thoroughly. On the other it requires them to move around with all their stuff ánd their kids. I think that it’s super interesting what they are doing, not only because I have thoughts about becoming a teacher as well after all of this cycling, but also because its a brilliant way to see the world. Their son joins our conversation and it’s funny to hear how ambitious his outlook on life is. Since he only studies in international schools, surrounded by the sons of bankers, diplomats and even presidents, his view on life is so different than it was for me in that age. I feel happy for him, You go, young man, you change the world!

I sleep in and have the house to myself when I wake up. Rachel and Stephane are at work. It’s not the first time that I’ve been overwhelmed with a huge confidence and trust. Sure make yourself coffee, make yourself breakfast, take my computer to write your little website, make yourself lunch, take anything you need. It feels like you’re a part of the family within hours. It’s a wonderful feeling. A feeling of trust not only in me, but in the goodness of all the people on this earth.

I don’t leave the house that day, it’s nice for a change. When Rachel and Stephan get home we have dinner and more interesting conversations together.

The next day it’s Rachels birthday. She acts pretty casual about it but I feel like I have to do something. So I improvise a gift and wrap it in toilet paper so at least I’m not empty handed. After another delicious breakfast it’s time to leave this warm nest. Rachel and Stephan are going away for the weekend so time for me to pack up as well. Funny enough we’re going in the same direction.

Today I will meet up with the Argentinians that I met in Antigua, Guatemala. Lately I’ve been feeling like I could use some company for the road and since Fernanda and Nube are pretty close I decide to drive north to meet them at Lago Coatepeque and ride together with them for a bit.

The first 20k are steep down a super busy highway. The road is clogged with traffic and only moving very slow, which means no sudden lateral movements from the cars and thus I fly down and in between the cars. Going around 40/50km/h I overtake everything and everyone on the right, left and in the middle between the cars. I love this. The adrenaline, the wind, the risk, the disbelief of the car drivers, finding the right gaps between the cars just in time not to slow down. After that the fun is over, the road goes up and gravity will instead be a disadvantage from here on. In the meantime I’m texting with Fernanda where to meet up and I suggest to go to a camping that I found on iOverlander on the south side of the lake.

After one last bumpy gravel road I make it to the campsite. I find Nube and Fernanda on the lake shore and it’s good to see them again. I had a good connection with them back in Guatemala, the three of us stayed in casa Thomas together for a couple of days and we jointly did one of the best hikes I’ve ever done to an erupting volcano. Such an impressive experience can create friendships quickly.

We catch up, swim in the lake and prepare food on a campfire.

I have to change my mindset a little bit. The thing is: I decided to join them, which means I feel like I should adapt to them. But Spanish is the common language between the three of us and my Spanish is OK but not perfect. So to be honest I have no clue what the plan is today, but I decide to go with the flow so for me everything is fine. In the end it turns out that we’re going to chill at the lake for another day. Nube is recovering from some stomach issues and can use another day of rest. It’s perfect here at the lake. The only people around are some friendly day trippers that try to catch some fish. We make a small trip to the next town to get some food, do some more swimming and some more campfire and cooking. It’s funny to hang around with these experienced bike-travellers, Fernanda is traveling the Americas for 5 (!) years already and Nube multiple years as well. I pay close attention to their stories, tips and habits to learn from them.

The next day is the first day on the bike with the three of us, I’m excited. We start of with the same gravel road and it goes up steep. At some point we apparently are disturbing a family of bees and I get stung two times and Nube gets a sting as well. Riding with a group is different and requires some probing at first.

I am a bit faster than the other two, I don’t want to force my pace upon them but also want to cycle my own pace. But all goes well. We wait for each other when needed and everybody is happy. It’s super hot (what’s new?) and we have to climb a lot. I feel sorry for Fernanda, she is half the person I am but is carrying a bike that’s just as heavy as mine. But I shouldn’t feel sorry for her, because this is what makes her happy as well and ofcourse she choose to do this. We cycle along a busy auto piste but have no other choice. It’s busy with cars, the many trucks are super loud and the shoulders are small or non-existent. Mid-day our faces have a mask with a mix of sweat, exhaust gases and dust. The chaos and the loudness of the highway is taking up a lot of energy. The plan is to go to San Salvador where the Argentinians have a contact where we can stay. We make it to San Salvador where we get some food at a supermarket thinking we’re almost there. Little do we know that our contacts live out of town on top of a hill. We climb, take a break, climb some more and have to take more breaks. It’s been a long day and sun is setting. In the dark and with heavy legs we make it to the house of Nancy and Guillermo. Here we can pitch our tents in the backyard and rest for a bit. We get treated to Pupusas and juices.

In Salvador, again, we take some rest days. The pace in El Salvador is slower than I’m used to but I have to say I don’t mind at all. There is no rush. The only appointment I have is to meet my parents in Costa Rica, but that’s only gonna be in March. Lots of time in between now and March.

Nube has to arrange an extension of his visa for Central America, so he’ll be out the whole day visiting embassies and what not. Me and Fernanda take the bus to the city, visit the market, we try fried yuka (love it) and I find an internet cafe for a bit. The way back by bus is a true experience. Every El Salvadorean seems to be needing to take the bus. It’s rush hour and the lines for the busses are spilling out on the streets. Everywhere I see big busses appear from the thick fog of exhaust gasses with people hanging out of the open doors, grabbing on to the bus bars with all they have. Inside the busses are packed, personal space doesn’t exist here, people seem to be melted together. A wonderful chaos. The three of us are in line for some time as well and eventually get cramped into the back of the bus, when we are already driving at a reasonable speed, still some youngsters are capable to cling onto the side of the bus. I have to fold my neck in a 45 degree position to fit in and bump my head around 20 times when the bus driver flies over another speed bump but we make it to our destination alive.

At night we make pizza all together. Two Argentinians, Two Salvadoreans and a Dutchman, so of course the language spoken is Spanish. I get a little bit frustrated because I’m tired and I just cannot keep up with the level of Spanish that is being spoken here. I feel like a fifth wheel on the wagon. I’m only standing in everybody’s way when making the pizzas and don’t seem to understand the simplest orders I get to help with the cooking process. The pizzas are delicious and it’s a wonderful night yet still I go to bed irritated. Of course I’m only frustrated with myself and try to tell myself that it is only logical that I don’t have this level of Spanish yet. And I also understand that the rest is not gonna talk baby-spanish just for me. This is something I have to deal with. Tomorrow another day.

The next day I give myself and the others some space and visit the park and relax for a bit. At night Nancy makes the most delicious homemade Pupusas and rightfully earns the nickname “Pupuseria Nancy“.

Nube is not able to extent his visa here in El Salvador and thus has only 7 days left to cycle and/or hitchhike as a maniac to the next capital which is Tegucigalpa in Honduras. Fernanda and me still have plenty of time on our visas and therefore will not join him to be able to take it a bit easier. Too bad the three of us in the end could only be cycling together for one day. On the other side I still have Fernanda to cycle together with.